One good hash
Like Mary Kitchen, Julia Child has a special place in my heart. It was the legendary “French chef” who told a surprised Judith Jones to stir some stock or gravy into a hash to give it a crusty glaze. Jones, an esteemed cookbook editor and no slouch in the kitchen, found it really worked. Here’s an all-purpose hash recipe from Jones’ food memoir, “The Tenth Muse.”
Prep: 25 minutes
Cook: 30 minutes
Makes: 2 servings
2 tablespoons butter
2 to 3 mushrooms, chopped, optional
2 shallots or 1 medium onion, chopped
1 rib celery, chopped
1/2 large red or green bell pepper, chopped
2 medium or small potatoes, boiled, peeled, chopped
6 ounces cooked beef, lamb, pork, corned beef or
poultry, cut into a small dice
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon pepper
1/4 cup lamb, beef, veal or chicken stock
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
Melt the butter in an 8- or 9-inch skillet. Cook the mushrooms, shallots, celery and bell pepper, stirring often, until almost soft, about 5 minutes. Stir in the potatoes and the meat. Season with salt and pepper. Cook until hash begins to sizzle, 2 minutes.
Pour in the stock. Cook over low heat, partially covered, 10 minutes. Turn the hash over with a spatula. Cook, uncovered, until liquid evaporates and crust begins to form on bottom, 5 minutes. Turn the hash over; cook until other side is browned, 5 minutes. Serve with parsley sprinkled on top.
This shrimp hash from chef Patrick O’Connell of The Inn at Little Washington in Virginia ends with little cakes, which are browned in the skillet. O’Connell also adds lobster to this hash for a special celebration meal. The cakes can be made up to 12 hours ahead.
Prep: 40 minutes
Cook: 45 minutes
Makes: 4 servings
1/2 cup shrimp or chicken stock
2 teaspoons tomato paste
1/4 cup whipping cream
1 large Yukon gold potato, peeled, diced
3 tablespoons grapeseed or vegetable oil
2 tablespoons finely chopped onion
3 tablespoons diced green and red bell peppers
3 cloves garlic, minced
1/4 cup fresh bread crumbs
2 1/2 tablespoons flour
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
1/2 teaspoon grated, each: lemon zest, orange zest
3/4 pound raw shrimp, peeled, deveined, chopped
1/2 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground pepper
1 egg, beaten
Combine the shrimp stock, tomato paste and whipping cream in a small saucepan. Heat to a boil; reduce heat to a simmer. Cook until reduced by half. Cool to room temperature.
Meanwhile, boil the potato in a saucepan of salted water to cover until just tender, about 10 minutes. Drain; set aside.
Cook the onions in a skillet over medium-high heat in 1 1/2 tablespoons of the oil until lightly browned. Add the peppers; cook until tender. Add the garlic; cook 1 minute. Add the cooked potato; cook until lightly colored, about 10 minutes. Remove the cooked vegetables to a bowl. Add bread crumbs, flour, parsley, the lemon and orange zest, and shrimp. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
Add the egg; fold together gently until just combined. Shape the hash into cakes about 3 inches in diameter. At this point, the cakes can be wrapped in plastic and kept in the refrigerator for up to 12 hours.
When ready to serve, heat the remaining 1 1/2 tablespoons of oil in a large skillet; fry the cakes until golden, about 5 minutes per side. Drain on paper towels; serve with sauce.