You'll need a brick wrapped in aluminum foil or a metal grill press for this recipe. Serve with roasted potatoes and wilted spinach. The delicate, smoky flavors imparted to the chicken are a perfect foil for a crisp, citrusy, 2009 Ehler's Estate Sauvignon Blanc ($28).

1 garlic clove, coarsely chopped

1/2 tablespoon stemmed and coarsely chopped fresh rosemary leaves

1/2 tablespoon stemmed and coarsely chopped fresh sage leaves

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

2 tablespoons kosher salt

1 whole (3 1/2- to 4-pound) chicken

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 lemon, cut in wedges, for serving

Place garlic, rosemary, sage and pepper in a food processor, and pulse to finely chop. Transfer rub to a small bowl, stir in salt and cover tightly.

Remove excess fat from the chicken and rinse it inside and out under cold running water. Drain it and blot dry inside and out with paper towels.

To spatchcock the chicken, place it, breast side down, on a work surface. Starting at the thigh end, cut along one side of backbone with kitchen shears. Turn the chicken around and cut along the other side of the backbone. (Discard bone or save it for stock.)

Flip chicken over and open it like a book. Press firmly on the breastbone to flatten. Run the tip of a paring knife along the breastbone and cartilage below the breastbone, then run your thumbs along both sides of the breastbone and cartilage and pull them out.

Cut small slits in the skin of the bird behind the legs and tuck the drumsticks into them in order to hold them in place.

Prepare a medium fire in the grill or heat a gas grill to medium.

Generously season the chicken all over with the rub. Place it, skin-side down, on the grill grate. Place a foil-covered brick or grill press on top of the bird. Grill, turning once, until chicken is crisp and golden brown on both sides, about 20 minutes per side. Use an instant-read thermometer to check for internal temperature of 165 degrees.

Place the grilled chicken on a platter and drizzle it with olive oil. Serve with lemon wedges. Makes 4 servings.

Per serving: 496 calories (64 percent from fat), 34.6 g fat (9.9 g saturated, 14.4 g monounsaturated), 172.5 mg cholesterol, 42.8 g protein, 0.5 g carbohydrates, 0 fiber, 3113 mg sodium.

Source: Adapted from "Planet Barbecue" by Steven Raichlen (Workman, $22.95).