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Randall Murray: Find an Austrian wine in Buford and try Emilio Moro Malleolus 2011
0105MALLEOLUS-wine
Wine columnist Randall Murray selected the Emilio Moro Malleolus 2011 as the wine of the month for January 2016.

WINE OF THE MONTH

Emilio Moro Malleolus 2011

The wine: Full, rich, red table wine.

The grapes: 100 percent Tempranillo.

The source: Ribera del Duero, Spain.

The verdict: Spain boasts more than a dozen types of red wine grapes, including monastrell, garnacha and Carinena, to name the best known. But tempranillo, my friend, is the great one, at least in my opinion. This selection from the famed producer Emilio Moro is enough to make red wine lovers tell the World Health Organization to take its red meat = cancer study and stuff it. This hearty amigo hollers for red meat. It would be my wine of choice at the churrascaria-style restaurants where you can eat meat until it flows from your ears. Lots of dark fruit flavors, measured tannins and oak aromas bring great balance to your glass. Ribera del Duero is one of Spain’s best winemaking regions. And this is one of the best wines from there I’ve tasted in a very long time.

The price: About $50.

What better way to start off 2016 than by answering questions from readers?

I accrue queries during the year from folks who read this column, from those who take my wine education courses and from people who recognize me on the street by the brown bag in my hand.

In the interest of full disclosure, I do respond immediately to email, mail or phone questions. And I ask if the questioners will agree to my using their questions in a future column. Most agree.

Those in the Witness Protection Program generally hang up quickly.

So, with no further ado, here are questions from inquiring minds.

Question: Years ago, my wife’s cousin in Maine introduced us to a wonderful Austrian wine named Gruner Veltliner. We recently ran into it again on a European vacation. I have found sources on the Internet from which to acquire this wine, but I am reluctant to pay the shipping cost for a small quantity. Are you familiar with this marvelous wine and do you know of a relatively local source?

Answer: Austria is presently engaged in a large public relations campaign to sell its wines — many of them quite good — in this country.

Gruner Veltliner is one of the primary white wines of Austria. Although difficult to find, it is worth the search and the relatively reasonable price. It’s a dry white, but with a crispness that makes it very nice with food.

I directed this reader to a small wine shop on Hamilton Mill Road in Buford. Happily, there was some in stock. The owner agreed to order more, and everybody was happy.

Q: I have followed your recommendations regarding boxed wines and generally agree with your preferences. However, in September, we bought a Black Box Shiraz and found it not very good. It had a sharp, unpleasant taste. What do we do about that?

A: Although this is a few months after I received this question, I responded in the following way.

Although I generally like Black Box wines, I have encountered some problems with them.

First was an outdated Chardonnay that was really flawed. My bad for not checking the vintage date when I bought the wine. It was about two years older than acceptable. That could be the fault of the retail store where it was sold, or of the distributor who sold it to the store.

But my problem was when I complained to Black Box, I received no response.

Similarly, after receiving the above question about the Shiraz, I bought a box and encountered the same objectionable taste. I emailed Black Box and, again, got no response.

Based on those situations, I cannot comfortably recommend Black Box wines.

If I encountered two problems and got no response, how many other problems are out there? I feel comfortable in recommending Bota Box wines.

Q: How have the fires in California wine country affected the vineyards? Do we need to be wary of buying wines from the 2015 vintage?

A: During September it seemed as if most of California was in flames. Sadly, a few wineries and vineyards were destroyed.

But destruction by fire is not the biggest hazard. Smoke taint is. That occurs when smoke and ash pervade the vineyards and the negative aromas and tastes actually get into the grapes. It can ruin an entire crop, meaning that year’s cash flow is pretty well shot. For smaller wineries that operate hand to mouth, that can be fatal.

Most winemakers are scrupulous about not making wine from tainted grapes. But if you are concerned — especially in Georgia where you cannot return alcoholic beverages to the retailer, no matter how foul — stay away from 2015 wines from Lake County and northern Sonoma and Napa counties. Napa Valley wines should be fine, as should those from central and southern Sonoma.

Randall Murray is a Gainesville-area resident. Have a question about wine? He can be contacted at murrwine@aol.com. His column appears on the first Wednesday of the month and on gainesvilletimes.com/life.