Wine of the month
McWilliams Hanwood Estate Chardonnay 2007
The wine: Dry, medium-bodied white table wine
The grapes: 100 percent chardonnay
The source: Southeastern Australia
The verdict: There are a couple of myths busted in this bottle. First is that chardonnay is a wine that's past its prime. Second is that Aussie chardonnay is overly fruity and insipid. Not this Aussie chard. Fruit for this tasty and lightly crisp white was picked at night, a practice that helps preserve the character of the grapes. Most of the juice was fermented in stainless steel, and the rest in new and used French and American oak. The folks at McWilliams did this one just right. The result is a chardonnay that does not smell and taste like a fruit salad, but one that you will bring to the table confident it will match your chicken or seafood entrée. The winery suggests serving it with grilled salmon steaks, but I don't think it has the heft to handle that big fish. And if you're fanning yourself on the patio baking in the sauna that is Northeast Georgia in the summer, nicely chilled this chardonnay is a fine sipping wine.
The price: About $12
Got a note recently about a wine pioneer named Mondavi who's going to be honored in California later this year.
And it ain't "Robert."
Robert Mondavi, who for decades led the charge to establish California wines as world class, died last May. He truly was a great man, one of the pre-eminent proselytizers for wines and wineries from the Golden State.
But honors will go this year to a Mondavi who, except for a celebrated fistfight more than 40 years ago (more on that in a minute), was a more subdued great in California winedom.
That would be Peter Mondavi Sr., Robert's brother, who built the heirloom Charles Krug winery in Napa Valley into one of the most enduring establishments of its type.
Some of the firsts from Charles Krug and that side of the Mondavi family:
The first winery newsletter, Bottles & Bins, in 1949.
Tastings on the lawn at the winery were believed to have been — in 1957 — the first public tastings offered in Napa Valley and led to a huge succession of public wine events.
Charles Krug in 1963 was the first Napa winery to import French oak barrels for aging and fermenting its wine.
And it was among the first to vintage date its varietal wines.
The famous fistfight was between the two brothers, Robert and Peter, both of whom in the early ‘60s were at Charles Krug. Robert was impatient, anxious to move quickly to utilize new technology in wine production. Peter was more old school. The two chafed publicly.
One day, when Peter allegedly accused Robert of taking money from the winery, Robert lost it. His temper legendary, Robert ordered his brother to take back the accusation. When Peter declined, Robert slugged him ... twice. Then he left Charles Krug never to return. The two brothers did not speak for decades.
Peter Mondavi used his influence in different ways from Robert. Yet he is considered one of the wine world's giants. It is fitting that he be given a Lifetime Achievement Award from the California State Fair, along with two other wine luminaries, trailblazing winemaker Zelma Long and viticulture professor Vincent Petrucci.
And, yes, the brothers did make up before Robert passed to the great vineyard in the sky.
Planning a trip to California wine country? Simply interested in knowing more about one of the Golden State's leading industries and tourist attractions?
Wine Institute, the trade organization for wine growers and producers, is celebrating California Wine Month 2009 in September. It has established a friendly, comprehensive and informative web site - discovercaliforniawine.com. If I can navigate it — and I have — the site truly is idiot proof.
Even if you're not going there, take the opportunity to explore the world of California wines ... without leaving the house.
Interesting piece in The Times a few weeks back. The headline read, "The wine's still flowing, but from cheaper bottles." It was a wire piece that reflected on the effects of the recession on wine consumption.
Essentially folks are drinking as much wine — if not more — than they did before the toilet flushed the U.S. economy; they simply are drinking less expensive stuff. Makes sense, I think.
Whereas two years ago people might have plunked down $25 or $30 for a good merlot (no, that's not an oxymoron, there are some good ones out there), now the bill is closer to $15 to, maybe, $20.
The story told how more wine consumers are shopping at supermarkets and large chain wine stores, turning their backs on small, locally operated shops.
While big chains have the power to hold down prices through economies of scale - the primary example being Costco with their premium wines - they also have the ability to homogenize wine consumption. Locally owned shops may not offer the volume and sale prices that big guys do, but they do offer (1) service and (2) selections you probably won't find elsewhere.
I frequently stop by my favorite local wine shop and chat with the owner, kid him about his latest baseball cap and sample some fine cheese. He'll recommend a wine and, generally, I'll take his recommendation. He's never steered me wrong.
So while you may want to stock up at the supermarket or chain store on box wines or the major labels, remember that your local shop owner is going through some tough times, too. Drop in and give him or her some business.
It's the right thing to do.
Randall Murray is a Gainesville-area resident. Have a question about wine? E-mail him. His column runs on the first Wednesday of the month.