Petite sirah is anything but petite. This resurgent dry red table wine, often referred to as “a winemaker’s wine,” is climbing the popularity charts in this country, chasing such competitors as merlot, malbec and cabernet sauvignon for favor among American winos. And if you never have tried a petite sirah, track one down, chill it slightly and pop the cork (or unscrew the cap) with a meal of hearty red meat or spicy food.