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Wine Without Pretense: Sampling a big, bold red wine

POSTED: October 3, 2012 1:30 a.m.

When wine drinkers chat about the great red wine grapes from Italy, two names leap to the top of the list — the robust Nebbiolo of the Piedmont region, and the bright and fruity Sangiovese from Tuscany.

Of course, there are others, but they are in a second tier ... grapes such as Aglianico, Bardolino and Valpolicello.

I’m going to throw another one at you. You’d better duck ... it’s a heavyweight.

It’s called Sagrantino.

A few weeks ago, I got an email from a PR type representing a winery that produces Sagrantino, Arnaldo-Capria. He had received a clipping of one of my Times columns and wondered if I knew anything about Sagrantino. I conceded I did not know much, but that applies to myriad subjects, not just wine grapes.

Let me send you a sample, he offered.

Time out.

In the interest of full disclosure I must tell you this. I have been writing and teaching about wine for more than 30 years. Back in the day, when my column was distributed nationally, I frequently would get letters and phone calls (pre-e-mail times) from wineries and PR people asking if I accepted samples. I responded thusly:

I accept samples on two conditions. First, that does not obligate me to write anything good about the wine if I don’t think it has merit. Second, that does not obligate me to write anything at all about the wine if I so choose. Accept those conditions, and we can get to work.

In 30-plus years I’ve had only two contacts back away from those conditions.

So I told Alessandro, yes, send me a sample ... and some background. Sagrantino has a wonderful story to tell.

It comes from Umbria in central Italy, a region that produces some wine, not much of it noteworthy. Sagrantino is found in the area around the town of Montefalco. Some believe the grape was brought there by followers of St. Francis of Assisi. Others believe the grape originated in Spain. Whatever. It flourishes in Umbria.

The wine Alessandro sent is Sagrantino di Montefalco Collepiano from the 2005 vintage. I was impressed to see it bears the quality designator "Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita," or DOCG for short. That’s the highest quality level for Italian wines, which in these times are highly regulated and monitored for quality.

This is a grand, big-shouldered red wine. It really does need another two-to-three years of bottle aging. One of the recommendations for a food match, from an Italian source, is wild boar sausage. Good luck finding that at the grocery store. But this wine does need something bold, something hearty to go with it.

And before you go yapping at me for cheerleading a great wine you’ll never see here, I’ve been assured this Sagrantino is in general distribution in Georgia. You may have to go out of your way — the dreaded word "Atlanta" comes to mind — but more than 5,800 cases were produced.

Sagrantino wine is quite tannic. It’s filled with polyphenols, the elements in red wine that are loaded with antioxidants, which have been determined to have a positive impact on reducing coronary artery plaque. It’s also filled with flavors and textures.

Color is very dark, almost like a big California Zinfandel. It gets a lot of hands-on attention in the vineyards and the winery. Yearlong, French oak barrel aging gives the wine that trademark vanilla nose.

Bottom line: This is a really big wine that carries quality through in taste and mouth feel. It ain’t cheap, around $60 retail. But if you want to step off the well-marked path of merlots, cabernets, Chiantis, etc., look for this one. And if you find wild boar sausage, give me a holler.

Here’s another Italian treat that came to me recently. It’s Santa Margherita Brut Rose, a non-vintage sparkling wine. Truth be told, I’ve harbored ill will toward Santa Margherita for many years because of the excessive price tag on its signature pinot grigio. It’s still overpriced, but I’m going to look beyond that with this lovely little bubbly.

Comprising chardonnay and prosecco grapes, with a touch of malbec for color, this wine really sings. It’s not bone dry, but it is a nice food wine, settling in well with seafood, pork, chicken or veggie dishes. Nose is subdued, but you will find fresh, floral flavors in the mouth. Retail price is about $20.

I’m thinking about this wine for the Thanksgiving table.

Randall Murray is a Gainesville-area resident. Have a question about wine? He can be contacted at murrwine@aol.com. His column appears on the first Wednesday of the month and on gainesvilletimes.com/life.

Oct. 2, 2012 04:08p.m. EDT Wine Without Pretense: Sampling a big, bold red wine Gainesville Times

When wine drinkers chat about the great red wine grapes from Italy, two names leap to the top of the list — the robust Nebbiolo of the Piedmont region, and the bright and fruity Sangiovese from Tuscany.

Of course, there are others, but they are in a second tier ... grapes such as Aglianico, Bardolino and Valpolicello.

I’m going to throw another one at you. You’d better duck ... it’s a heavyweight.

It’s called Sagrantino.

A few weeks ago, I got an email from a PR type representing a winery that produces Sagrantino, Arnaldo-Capria. He had received a clipping of one of my Times columns and wondered if I knew anything about Sagrantino. I conceded I did not know much, but that applies to myriad subjects, not just wine grapes.

Let me send you a sample, he offered.

Time out.

In the interest of full disclosure I must tell you this. I have been writing and teaching about wine for more than 30 years. Back in the day, when my column was distributed nationally, I frequently would get letters and phone calls (pre-e-mail times) from wineries and PR people asking if I accepted samples. I responded thusly:

I accept samples on two conditions. First, that does not obligate me to write anything good about the wine if I don’t think it has merit. Second, that does not obligate me to write anything at all about the wine if I so choose. Accept those conditions, and we can get to work.

In 30-plus years I’ve had only two contacts back away from those conditions.

So I told Alessandro, yes, send me a sample ... and some background. Sagrantino has a wonderful story to tell.

It comes from Umbria in central Italy, a region that produces some wine, not much of it noteworthy. Sagrantino is found in the area around the town of Montefalco. Some believe the grape was brought there by followers of St. Francis of Assisi. Others believe the grape originated in Spain. Whatever. It flourishes in Umbria.

The wine Alessandro sent is Sagrantino di Montefalco Collepiano from the 2005 vintage. I was impressed to see it bears the quality designator "Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita," or DOCG for short. That’s the highest quality level for Italian wines, which in these times are highly regulated and monitored for quality.

This is a grand, big-shouldered red wine. It really does need another two-to-three years of bottle aging. One of the recommendations for a food match, from an Italian source, is wild boar sausage. Good luck finding that at the grocery store. But this wine does need something bold, something hearty to go with it.

And before you go yapping at me for cheerleading a great wine you’ll never see here, I’ve been assured this Sagrantino is in general distribution in Georgia. You may have to go out of your way — the dreaded word "Atlanta" comes to mind — but more than 5,800 cases were produced.

Sagrantino wine is quite tannic. It’s filled with polyphenols, the elements in red wine that are loaded with antioxidants, which have been determined to have a positive impact on reducing coronary artery plaque. It’s also filled with flavors and textures.

Color is very dark, almost like a big California Zinfandel. It gets a lot of hands-on attention in the vineyards and the winery. Yearlong, French oak barrel aging gives the wine that trademark vanilla nose.

Bottom line: This is a really big wine that carries quality through in taste and mouth feel. It ain’t cheap, around $60 retail. But if you want to step off the well-marked path of merlots, cabernets, Chiantis, etc., look for this one. And if you find wild boar sausage, give me a holler.

Here’s another Italian treat that came to me recently. It’s Santa Margherita Brut Rose, a non-vintage sparkling wine. Truth be told, I’ve harbored ill will toward Santa Margherita for many years because of the excessive price tag on its signature pinot grigio. It’s still overpriced, but I’m going to look beyond that with this lovely little bubbly.

Comprising chardonnay and prosecco grapes, with a touch of malbec for color, this wine really sings. It’s not bone dry, but it is a nice food wine, settling in well with seafood, pork, chicken or veggie dishes. Nose is subdued, but you will find fresh, floral flavors in the mouth. Retail price is about $20.

I’m thinking about this wine for the Thanksgiving table.

Randall Murray is a Gainesville-area resident. Have a question about wine? He can be contacted at murrwine@aol.com. His column appears on the first Wednesday of the month and on gainesvilletimes.com/life.

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