One of the bennies of being a wine writer and educator is that I get to travel the world in search of good wines. Unfortunately that global trip means going to local wine shops for vicarious visits.

Recently I taught a course at Brenau University about wines from Eastern Europe, an area with a long but spotty wine history. Over most of the 20th century, dominated by communist rule, the wine industry of countries such as Hungary, Bulgaria, Romania, the former Yugoslavia, etc., stagnated. Some good wines were made but the centralized control of industry was not conducive to risk or innovation.

“From each according to his ability, to each according to his need,” meant winemakers had to listen to apparatchik who knew little or nothing about milking the grape. Result? Mediocre wines with limited distribution to the West.

Today things are changing. Democracy has largely been installed in eastern European nations, and new countries have appeared. What happened to Czechoslovakia? Where’s Yugoslavia? And what the heck is Herzegovina?
We tasted about a dozen wines from the region where Dracula prowled and where Bacchus, god of wine, allegedly grew up. Results: Some very good, some OK, some not so great. Here’s a sampling.

Giocato Pinot Grigio 2010: This wine comes from the Primorska region of western Slovenia, one of the former Yugoslav republics. It is the center of Slovenia’s wine production. This one is made from fruit grown in a herbicide-free, 10-acre (very small) vineyard. The wine is acidic, with citrussy hints. You may discern a touch of coconut, which the winemaker claims comes from exposure during aging in barrels made of local oak. About $12.

VIO Pinot Grigio 2010: From Romania comes this lively white, named for the winery owner’s mother. According to legend Bacchus grew up in the nearby region of Banat. This wine originated in the Ville Timisuliu area, one of Romania’s best-known wine-producing regions. It is softer than the Giacato, with more tropical fruit aromas. But it is quite dry and will taste and feel better if consumed with appropriate foods. About $14.

Skeleton Gruner Veltliner 2010, Burgenland, Austria: Austria’s wine industry is on the rebound following a huge scandal in the 1980s. Gruner Veltliner, the name of the grape, is the country’s most popular. In a nifty marketing touch, the wine is often referred to as Gru Ve (pronounced “Groovy”). It’s similar in structure to the white Burgundies of France with a crisp acidity and subdued fruit flavors. It’s a nice food wine. About $13 (1-liter bottle).

T Sauvignon Blanc 2008 Transylvania, Romania: From the land of Dracula comes this dry white. Wines have been made in this mountainous region since the 5th century B.C. Although this wine is beginning to show its age it continues to throw off apple aromas with faint floral hints in the nose. About $14.

Murfatlar Pinot Noir 2009 Romania: Not much tannin, which is typical of pinot noir. You may notice floral (think roses) notes in the nose, as well as dark cherries. It’s a soft wine with a nice mouth feel. Lightly chilled, this could be a satisfying sipping wine. About $15.

Vini Merlot 2009 Thracian Valley, Bulgaria: This medium-bodied, softish red comes from one of Bulgaria’s primary growing areas, the Thracian Valley. It smells of dark fruit with a hint of smoke. The winery recommends it with hefty veal dishes. I’d suggest beef, too. After this wine was served, I learned it was named wine of the year by a prestigious importer. About $10.

Egri Bikaver Bull’s Blood 2008 Hungary: Now here’s the wine that made Hungarian wine makers famous back in the ’70s. Robust and mouth-filling this is a goulash kind of wine. The primary grape is the native kadarka, but small amounts of other varietals, such as cabernet franc and merlot, are blended in. Today’s style is lighter than three decades ago, but Bull’s Blood has been made since the 17th century and is a great food wine … with the right foods, of course. About $14.

Grand Moscato NV Moldova: This muscat offering from a former Soviet state offers high alcohol and a robust helping of sweetness to bring the evening to an end. It reminds me of a ruby port. Moldova is located north of Bulgaria and Romania and is blessed with fine vineyard land. Wine making has been part of life there since about 3000 B.C. Squabbles with the Russians and neighboring Georgians have hampered Moldovan wine production in recent years. About $10.

All these wines are available locally.

Randall Murray is a Gainesville-area resident and a wine writer/educator for more than 30 years.