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Cannon: Common problems with tomatoes

POSTED: May 31, 2012 7:33 p.m.

 There is almost an endless list as to what can cause tomatoes not to produce well. From environmental changes in temperatures, humidity and water to the many fungal issues, both bacterial and viral that can cause problems.

And don’t forget about the many insects from worms to aphids that can wreak havoc on an otherwise beautiful lush green plant.

I will touch on some of the common problems and remedies and hope that it covers some of the problems that you — the veggie gardener might be facing.

Environment

Environmental conditions cause many of the problems with tomatoes. If the tomatoes are planted too early, cold snaps and cool night temperatures can affect the early blooms. It can hamper pollination and sometimes cause the blooms to drop off. It is always a good idea to plant late April to early May.

Always plant tomatoes in a sunny location with eight hours of full sun.

Blossom end rot

This is described as a rotting on the bottom of the fruit that will easily destroy it. This is a common problem and can easily be avoided by a soil test before you plant to make sure your garden’s pH is sufficient. If the pH of the garden soil is too low, the plant is not getting enough calcium. A foliar application of calcium chloride can help if the problem has just started and you spray directly on the plant and fruit. To prevent blossom end rot, start spraying when the green tomatoes are about the size of a silver dollar and spray once a week for about four weeks.

Early blight

We have seen a lot of this fungal issue this year, and it can be described as a disease that attacks the lower foliage of tomato plants causing the leaves to turn yellow and wither. As the days get warmer and more humid, the disease will move up the plant infecting the rest of the plant as it goes up.

To control, keep the plants well mulched to prevent the fungal spores from splashing from the ground onto the lower foliage. Snipping off the bottom leaves will also help. Do not leave the leaves laying under the plant. If the disease becomes severe, spray the plants with a recommended garden fungicide.

Soil and water conditions

Most vegetables including tomatoes need good soil to start. Compaction, drainage problems, low or high pH all have a significant effect on the plants and take up nutrients they may need. Having a soil pH range somewhere between 6.5–6.8 is best.

Tomatoes need deep roots to thrive so water deeply and consistently, keeping the soil at a consistent moisture level. They do not need to be watered every day, so lay down some soaker hoses and let them get a good slow drip watering once or twice a week for good root development.

Raised beds are an ideal way to take care of soil and drainage problems encountered while growing vegetables in the home garden. Mix in deep fertile soil and you are off to a good start.

Cracking and catfacing

Tomatoes can start to crack during warm rainy periods, especially followed by dry drought-like conditions. Our previous summers certainly have had long dry spells, so it is a problem to watch for. Again, try to keep the moisture supply as even as possible throughout the season.

Catfacing is another kind of cracking or scarring in which tomatoes develop unusually fast and swell. This is not a disease. Most of this is caused by cooler weather than normal.

Insects

Tomatoes are susceptible to many insects such a worms, mites and aphids. Check for insect damage regularly, especially on the bottom of leaves. If you suspect insect damage, you can bring a sample to our extension office for a diagnosis. Some varieties of tomatoes have been bred for resistance to certain pests, so always check the labels for the abbreviation VFN.

Discussion about the various common problems associated by the home gardener can be diverse and complex, but we can always help to offer solutions.

Wanda Cannon serves as the Hall County Master Gardener coordinator and horticulture assistant for the Hall County Extension Office. Phone: 770-535-8293. Her column appears biweekly and on gainesvilletimes.com/life.

May. 31, 2012 07:43p.m. EDT Cannon: Common problems with tomatoes Gainesville Times

 There is almost an endless list as to what can cause tomatoes not to produce well. From environmental changes in temperatures, humidity and water to the many fungal issues, both bacterial and viral that can cause problems.

And don’t forget about the many insects from worms to aphids that can wreak havoc on an otherwise beautiful lush green plant.

I will touch on some of the common problems and remedies and hope that it covers some of the problems that you — the veggie gardener might be facing.

Environment

Environmental conditions cause many of the problems with tomatoes. If the tomatoes are planted too early, cold snaps and cool night temperatures can affect the early blooms. It can hamper pollination and sometimes cause the blooms to drop off. It is always a good idea to plant late April to early May.

Always plant tomatoes in a sunny location with eight hours of full sun.

Blossom end rot

This is described as a rotting on the bottom of the fruit that will easily destroy it. This is a common problem and can easily be avoided by a soil test before you plant to make sure your garden’s pH is sufficient. If the pH of the garden soil is too low, the plant is not getting enough calcium. A foliar application of calcium chloride can help if the problem has just started and you spray directly on the plant and fruit. To prevent blossom end rot, start spraying when the green tomatoes are about the size of a silver dollar and spray once a week for about four weeks.

Early blight

We have seen a lot of this fungal issue this year, and it can be described as a disease that attacks the lower foliage of tomato plants causing the leaves to turn yellow and wither. As the days get warmer and more humid, the disease will move up the plant infecting the rest of the plant as it goes up.

To control, keep the plants well mulched to prevent the fungal spores from splashing from the ground onto the lower foliage. Snipping off the bottom leaves will also help. Do not leave the leaves laying under the plant. If the disease becomes severe, spray the plants with a recommended garden fungicide.

Soil and water conditions

Most vegetables including tomatoes need good soil to start. Compaction, drainage problems, low or high pH all have a significant effect on the plants and take up nutrients they may need. Having a soil pH range somewhere between 6.5–6.8 is best.

Tomatoes need deep roots to thrive so water deeply and consistently, keeping the soil at a consistent moisture level. They do not need to be watered every day, so lay down some soaker hoses and let them get a good slow drip watering once or twice a week for good root development.

Raised beds are an ideal way to take care of soil and drainage problems encountered while growing vegetables in the home garden. Mix in deep fertile soil and you are off to a good start.

Cracking and catfacing

Tomatoes can start to crack during warm rainy periods, especially followed by dry drought-like conditions. Our previous summers certainly have had long dry spells, so it is a problem to watch for. Again, try to keep the moisture supply as even as possible throughout the season.

Catfacing is another kind of cracking or scarring in which tomatoes develop unusually fast and swell. This is not a disease. Most of this is caused by cooler weather than normal.

Insects

Tomatoes are susceptible to many insects such a worms, mites and aphids. Check for insect damage regularly, especially on the bottom of leaves. If you suspect insect damage, you can bring a sample to our extension office for a diagnosis. Some varieties of tomatoes have been bred for resistance to certain pests, so always check the labels for the abbreviation VFN.

Discussion about the various common problems associated by the home gardener can be diverse and complex, but we can always help to offer solutions.

Wanda Cannon serves as the Hall County Master Gardener coordinator and horticulture assistant for the Hall County Extension Office. Phone: 770-535-8293. Her column appears biweekly and on gainesvilletimes.com/life.

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